2) When my unit kicks on, there is a "pinging" or "rattling" noise coming from the ductwork. Can this be checked out to see if something is loose causing the ping?
Brian

If the air flowing from only one register is weak it's most likely a problem with the duct layout. This assumes of course that you ve checked the obvious like something blocking the vent or possibly falling into the duct behind the register. Whether something can be done at this point depends upon if the duct is concealed or not. Air distribution is one of the most misunderstood and unknown sciences of our industry. Many new homes are built using the lowest cost contractor available and they seldom have nor desire the knowledge of proper duct design. But, since the prospective owner doesn t "see" the ductwork, it s normally one of the least thought out issues in a new home. Too bad, once it's installed it's pretty well a done deal and few corrective measures are effective. The other issue you mention, "pinging", is referred to in our industry as  oil canning . Again, fast, cheap installation of duct work is usually not reinforced and therefore the sides of the duct flex in and out as air pressure expands the duct system. A simple preventative practice is to "cross-break" the longer expanses of duct to make the sides more rigid and less prone to "oil canning". Sometimes if the duct is exposed external braces can be attached to eliminate the problem.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I am looking to replace my window AC unit, and wondering if any manufactures a window AC unit that doubles as an exhaust fan (fan in reverse when AC is not operating)?
Bill

Bill, while I am not aware of anyone currently that offers this feature I'm fairly sure they are available. In the past this was basically standard. But the need to cut costs in order to keep prices low has led to the elimination of non-essential functions. I'd suggest getting on the internet and doing a little research. You should be able to come up with some options.
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I rent a double wide trailer and the furnace is the original furnace over 25 years old. At times the furnace will cycle 30+ times prior to actually kicking on to run. There is no consistency to when this happens so I can't track why. I usually keep my heat between 62-68 degrees throughout the day. Does this use up extra gas/electricity while this is happening? Does something need to be fixed/replaced? Am I looking at the furnace not working in the near future?
Tom

Tom, it sounds like there is definitely something not working properly with your system. Normally gas furnaces made after 1982 have safety devices in them that shut the system down if they fail to start after 3 to 5 attempts. However, I'm not sure if you're referring to a gas or electric furnace, the actual age of yours, the make and model, etc. This problem could even be caused by a bad heat anticipator in your thermostat (assuming it has one). I think I'd contact the property owner and suggest the need for a service call by a trained professional technician.
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I have a heat pump and would like to change it out for a regular A/C unit, will this work?
Millie

You should be able too but why? If for some reason you don't like the heat pump just use it in the summer only. If the heat pump is broken when you go to replace it there should be no issue in opting for an air conditioner only. I have to wonder though, I can think of very few reasons why anyone would want to switch out a heat pump for a standard air conditioner. The biggest problem we (and most utilities) see with people not wanting a heat pump is lack of qualified heat pump installers/contractors. If this is your reason contact NATE (www.natex.org) and seek a heat pump certified contractor in your area.
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I want to install a window a-c unit in the wall of my family room. The rest of the a-c will protrude into the attached garage. That is 2 1/2cars with 2 exterior doors and 2 double hung windows. Is it wise to install the a-c this way, or will my family room be troubled by gas fumes from the one car that occupies it? Thanks
Anonymous

That is definitely a possibility for fumes and more to enter your living space. I would advise against it. Why not check out this option instead. http://us.lge.com/products/category/list/home%20appliances_air%20conditioners_single-zone.jhtml Just get on the Internet and visit the link I ve listed. A ductless mini-split system would make much more sense, be much quieter, eliminate the possibility of fumes, mice, bugs, etc getting into the home from your garage, and more. Most contractors are now aware of these systems and if you shop around a bit you can find one that s quite affordable especially if you include all the cutting, framing, drywall, painting, etc. you d have to do with the window air route.
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I live in a mobile home 16,500 sq feet. This winter one side is nice and warm and the other side cold. What's wrong?
Anonymous

I assume you mean 1650 square foot mobile home. Well most likely the problem is the crossover tube or duct underneath your home. With 1650 square feet you most likely live in a double wide home. Typically there is a single duct trunk line that goes down the center of each half of the home with registers in the floor near the center of the room. Underneath your home there is usually an insulated tube or duct that connects these two rectangular trunk lines so that air gets to both halves of the home. If this came loose it would cause the problem you're describing. If you don't mind getting underneath your home you can check for duct leakage but it's not an easy job. You have to remove the insulation that covers the bottom of the home to expose the duct work. Then have someone turn the system on and look for blowing insulation or dust. If you can't see any you'll have to go inch by inch along the system to check for leaks and repair them. If they are small enough you can use a good quality foil duct tape to repair the leaks. Large ones will require some duct patches usually made out of sheet metal. Be very careful when doing any home repair work on your own. There are potentially lethal voltages in the wiring not to mention the potential for plumbing problems, water damage, etc. when working on your mobile home. If in doubt at all please call a professional
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What size central ac unit do I need for a 1250 sq ft home? When I bought my home I had no problems with the unit. Now in the summer time it freezes up at least twice a month and I've never been able to cool the living like the back of the house. The heater works fine. Can you point me in the right direction? Thank you.
Anonymous

There are several reasons why your system may not be operating properly. 1. Plugged filter, 2. Refrigerant leak, 3. Dirty evaporator or condenser coil, bad valves in the compressor, and many more. Other than the dirty filter the rest are best left up to a qualified repair professional. The size is dependant upon more than the square footage of your home. However, if it worked fine when you bought the home its most likely sized properly and just in need of service.
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Has central air installed in my split home 12/07 worked great over the summer of 2007? Oct 07 had attic insulated rolled in and now the middle of winter noticed water in my ceiling, coming from the return side of the system, and this system is only for cold air. Could those ducts have been disturbed during install of insulation causing cold air to get in the duct and create condensation? Strange that 2 months after I had insulation rolled in we noticed water mark in ceiling 12 inches x 12 inches roughly,
Anonymous

Good question. Based upon the information you've provided my guess would be that by adding insulation you have lowered the temperature the duct system is in enough to cause the condensation problem. You don't say of the duct was insulated, above the insulation, below it??? Without knowing where you live, some construction details, etc it is difficult to be more precise. If your dates are correct you installed the insulation in October of 2007 and the AC in December of 2007. The bottom line is this; when warm and cool temperatures meet there is a probability of condensing moisture, depending upon the surrounding humidity levels. Insulating the duct work is the most common way to help alleviate this when it becomes a problem. You may need to ventilate your attic to reduce humidity levels. I've actually been in homes where there were icicles freezing to the attic ceilings inside after the owner's had added insulation with out ventilating the attic space. This can be especially true if exhaust fans are vented into the attic space instead of outside.
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Sometimes during the day the temp. Rises to 60 and up, so I turned my thermostat to 70 when it warms up. Then during the night, when it begins to get cool inside, I turn the thermostat up to about 75. When I did it tonight, there was smoke coming from an air vent located in our kitchen. The scent of the smoked lingered for a few hours. I immediately turned the unit off. This was very unusual, never happened before, and it has worried me. I also noticed that the aux. heat light came on the thermostat as well. I have noticed this light on before on the colder days/nights. Is there a reason why the smoke would have come out of an inside vent? Should we be worried? I have 4 small children, and I don't want to put them in danger. This is why I immediately turned the unit off. Any help would be appreciated!
Karin

Regardless of the cause you need to have your system checked for safety reasons. It sounds as though you have a heat pump system with electric back up or supplemental heat. It could be something as simple as a small piece of paper found its way into the heating coils of your resistance heater or perhaps an element has burned out. Either way you need to do some follow-up for the safety of your home. Typically with heat pumps you are better off finding a set temperature where you are most comfortable, rather than turning it up and down frequently. When you turn the temperature up more than 2 or 3 degrees in most applications you automatically turn your backup or Aux heat unit on. The purpose of a heat pump is to run as much as possible to keep utility costs lower. By not allowing the heat pump to automatically maintain temperature you may be defeating this purpose. I understand this is not always possible for greatest comfort but you may want to consider just raising your normal temperature a degree or two and let the machine do its thing. A little experimentation should determine the best outcome for you.
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I recently moved into a 500SF apartment with central heat & air. I live alone, have no appliances other than an electric range, a fridge, and an electric hot water heater. My first month's electric bill was over $200. I try to keep the thermostat at 72 but cold air blows unless it's set on 75. The apartment complex would be responsible for the unit's malfunction but what do I tell them is wrong?
Jenny

Jenny, I would suggest you contact your local utility supplier and ask them for the history of the electrical consumption for that address. They should be able to tell you about any dramatic changes and how usage compares to  degree days . This should give you an idea about the overall circumstances you're experiencing. If temperatures stayed about the same and usage went up dramatically it may indicate a problem with the unit. If the usage changed about the time you moved in it could indicate your particular living habits have affected the utility usage. If they have been high all along it could indicate either the building in general is not very efficient, or the system may not have been installed or serviced properly. Unfortunately, some rental owners do not worry too much about energy costs especially if the tenant is paying the utilities. Make sure you're checking the energy usage usually measured in something called kilowatt hours or kwh, not the cost of the monthly bill. As energy prices increase you're monthly bill could indicate increased energy usage but what's really happening is you're looking at increased costs while actual consumption may not have gone up.
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We have some mold in our house that forms anywhere water stands. This would include the toilets and whirlpool tub in the jets. Should I be concerned with mold in the walls?
Anonymous

Mold has become a real concern over the years. Just like any living organism it needs food & water to survive. If there are any damp areas in your home that would migrate into the walls you should be concerned. If you remove the moisture many times you will stop mold growth. However, once it has established itself there is often enough moisture in the air to sustain mold growth. At that time it is most likely necessary to call in a professional to asses the situation. I'm curious how long it takes for the mold to show up in your toilet and whirlpool? Sometimes people confuse iron bacteria (present in many water systems) with mold. Iron bacteria or actual iron minerals in water will tend to show up in these two places because the water is aerated when it comes out of the rim of the toilet and the jets on the whirlpool. The only solution to that problem is a water conditioning system. It is usually a reddish color but can take on a slimy, black appearance when combined with manganese - also found in many water systems. Most home molds that are of concern are black in appearance.
If you are at all concerned have a professional check this out without delay. Once black mold has established itself in a structure it can be difficult if not impossible to eliminate. I'm aware of one unfortunate family in my town that had to abandon their fairly new home. Their insurance had a mold exclusion (as many do now), and they essentially ended up being financially responsible for a home that no one could live in. It was a very sad situation.
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I have 2 central A/C units for my home and I want to install time delay switches on them which one of the wires coming from the thermostat to the condenser should I use.
Anonymous

Unfortunately, due to insurance and liability reasons, I can not give specific directions on system repair. If your skill level is high enough to install the time delay it should also allow you to decipher the ladder schematic on your system. These are usually on the inside of the control compartment on your air conditioner. WARNING: There are lethal voltages within the unit and the wiring going to it. Do Not Attempt any do-it-yourself repairs unless you have been fully trained on the safe handling of these components! It is always best to seek a qualified professional for this type of repair.
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Today, my heater started blowing cold air and will not shut off. It has worked fine for the last year (when I purchased the home) and I was told that it was replaced in 2003. The filter is new and the thermostat is a digital that I installed myself last year. Both heat and air have worked great until today. What could be the problem?
Tryci

The most likely problem is the thermostat you installed may not be totally compatible with the system you have. It may have worked fine till now but small issues with some thermostats (especially those found in the  big box retailers) can cause all kinds of problems. While they may have the same brand name, some have switching or software variances that can wreak havoc with sensitive solid state heating and cooling controls. There are a multitude of other possibilities, stuck contactor, bad limit switch, bad transformer or sequencer, etc that can cause this symptom. Depending upon your skill level you may want to contact the manufacturer for a trouble-shooting chart or better yet, contact a reputable contractor in your area to diagnose and repair the problem.
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My daughter's 1954 single story, 2 bdrm 1 bath house needs a new heating system as it is baseboard heat. We are thinking of an 80% gas furnace to replace it. There is a 2' crawl space and an open attic, gable roof. A contractor wants to put the furnace in the attic w/registers blowing down. The house has had a ducted heating system in the past and has floor registers in place w/aluminum ductwork under the house. There is room in the single garage to place the furnace on the floor and a small access opening thru the foundation to the crawl space. If this were your house would you go for the ceiling installation or garage installation? Thanks
Bob

Bob, the simple answer is to use the existing ductwork and put the furnace in the garage. But there may be several reasons it's not the best option. The climate conditions where you live may not be suitable for that, the existing duct system may not be able to handle the new system, and several others. I personally like to have my system in the most accessible location which in your situation sounds like the garage. However, in my opinion, find a contractor that you trust and ask them for options. Make sure they offer you guarantees of performance and if they're good they should offer to guarantee your comfort also.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

Please help. I recently installed a comfortmaker 4 ton air handler in my home. The old unit was a 4 ton arcoaire, 20 years old and the insulation inside of it was molded and coming apart and the coil were terribly stopped up. My buddy is a self proclaimed ac repairman. He got me the new air handler and we installed it with no trouble. The new unit is extremely noisy, not like a squealing noise or anything, but it sounds like it is sucking the filter through the grille. It sucks too hard and blows too hard fan speed is on low but does not sound any different on med or high. I am sick of listening to it. I have a 20x30x1 return filter. The company sent me a new motor but did no good, I tried a smaller blower wheel no good either. The unit has an 1100rpm 3/4hp motor. My brother has a 4 ton Amana with 1/3 hp motor. I do not understand why mine is so much bigger. I need help. Another service man looked at it and put some kind of gage in front of the filter grille, and it went to 790 he said that should not be over 450. I am lost. Please Help. Thank you
Josh

Well, unfortunately, it sounds like you've made the oldest mistake in consumerism. There is much more to the heating and air conditioning industry than just opening a box, hooking up some wires, and putting some duct tape on some sheet metal. I believe what has happened is that new heating & air conditioning systems are much more efficient than the 20 year old one you removed. One of the ways they were made more efficient is that larger evaporator coils are used along with more efficient blower motors and wheels. When replacing heating and cooling systems it is almost imperative that a heating and cooling load calculation be done. Most of the time, the new system can be smaller than the existing one and problems like you're experiencing are avoided. The bottom line is this, it sounds like you have a mismatched system that is too big for the duct system in your home. You may be able to make some duct modifications to help alleviate the problem. If it were me I would call a professional contractor to see what can be done to help. Don't feel bad, we see this all the time. Friends and relatives, while meaning well, often end up costing us far more than had we just invited them over to dinner to see our new professionally installed comfort system
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

Can you address the differences (if any) between an attic mounted gas ducting and floor ducting? Are floor registers more efficient than ceiling registers?
Bob

Bob, for heating purposes in general floor mounted registers deliver more comfort than ceiling mounted. There are exceptions but since heat rises naturally in order to deliver even temperatures there is a tendency to increase air velocity with ceiling mounted registers to get the heat  down to floor level. Increased velocity is interpreted by the human body as  cooler air normally which has the offsetting effect of making your body feel cooler when you're trying to increase the warmth of the lower part of the room. In air conditioning mode ceiling mounted registers are typically more comfortable than floor mounted due to similar reasoning. This along with some geographical construction differences is the reason you find more ceiling registers in the southern part of the country. Hope this answers your question.
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hi i need to know if i can add a vent in my ductwork so i can get some heat in my basement. will it disrupt anything if i do add this vent? do i have to put a vent between the basement and first floor so air can circulate to air intake?
Tommy

Tommy, in almost all cases you can add a supply register (vent, as you call it) to your basement ductwork without causing any problems. That's the simple answer to your question. HOWEVER, also in almost all cases adding a single supply vent to basement ductwork does little to increase the overall comfort especially when trying to warm up a basement. Unfortunately air duct design is probably the single most mis-understood aspect of the heating and air conditioning industry. Very few (I could probably say almost none) of your average contractors ever seek training on this aspect of the industry. Next to safety though it is probably the most important when it comes to comfort, energy savings, extended life cycles, and more. It is estimated by many utilities and manufacturers that over 75% of the heating and cooling appliances out there that depend upon an air duct system to deliver conditioned air are operating well below their intended levels. This leads to far higher utility costs and much lower comfort levels than are possible. And, I might add, is the primary reason that many owners of newer heating and air conditioning products are dissatisfied with them.
So, go ahead and try it you really don't have much to lose and it may help a bit. Plus, thanks for letting me get on my soapbox, I just wish we could get more contractors to invest in the training needed to take care of their clients. PS - NEVER add a return air register in a basement or any other location where it could draw Carbon Monoxide from the furnace, water heater, woodstove, fireplace or any other device that can create Carbon Monoxide! This could be a lethal mistake. Contact your local utility or a Professional Heating Contractor if you're not sure.
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My window unit air conditioner has air and heat my problem is that my air still works good but my heat won't blow and it doesn't get hot please tell me what' s my problem
Rose

Rose, unfortunately there are far too many potential problems for me to diagnose this for you. Most likely it will end up being in the thermostat (usually built-in on window air conditioners). I would contact a professional heating and air conditioning company to take a look at it for you. If your local HVAC (heating, ventilating, air conditioning) company won't work on window air conditioners you can contact an appliance repair company possibly
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We live in a fairly new house, built in 1999, and in the past few years our air conditioning unit has not been cooling the house when it is first turned on in the summertime, and has needed servicing each time it happens for different problems. Is there anything that can be done to prevent the air conditioning unit from needing servicing again for at least a few more years?
Anonymous

The simple answer is yes, find a contractor in your area that provides an annual service or maintenance agreement program. Most service providers that offer this type of agreement will come to your home and completely inspect the unit. They will detect any problems and make you aware of them so that you can decide if something needs to be repaired, cleaned, serviced, etc. If your system passes their inspection they should be able to offer you a regularly scheduled service agreement to prevent the issues you're having or at the very least offer a discounted service price on any repairs that may need to be done in the future. We have several hundred Comfort Advantage Club Members and have proven that regularly scheduled maintenance doesn't cost - it pays... in reduced energy bills and fewer repair bills.
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I have a Window Air Condition Unit that's a few years old, it still cools good, but now I notice White Smoke coming in thru the Vents, what is the problem & how to fix it?
Shirley

First of all if you truly have smoke coming out of the unit I'd shut it off and call a technician right away. However, that being said, make sure you're seeing smoke and not frost coming out the deflectors. Many window air conditioners will actually get a confined area so cold in high humidity conditions that they begin to frost up. I've actually seen small chunks of ice come flying out of a window AC. If that is what's happening it's possible you just need to have the unit serviced. Another possibility is that you need to run the unit at a little warmer temperature and not keep the area quite as cool. Make sure you're not having a real problem with the smoke though; I think it's unlikely but better play it safe and get it checked.
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My A/C unit has to be replaced with a 13 seer unit as the coil failed. The tech. says that my copper line must also be replaced as it is 7/8" & as the run to the attic unit is around 85' it should be 1-1/8". I live in Texas so must have AC, but the cost to replace the piping is extreme. My house is 20 years old & has always had the 7/8". Do you think that this is really needed?
Anonymous

Based upon the information you gave me I would tend to agree with your technician. You may want to check around to see if there are some other brands of equipment that don't require going to 1 1/8" at 85'. There are too many variables to give you a definitive answer here. If you trust your service company I'd go with what they're telling you.
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There's a pipe in my downstairs closet that's leaking water and damaging my kitchen floor. The only it leaks is when my a c's running. Can u help me?
Donna

Donna, normally this is a simple fix. Your AC has to remove humidity from the air in order to cool it. The water that is removed from the air is typically run off thru a drain pipe or hose. At times these become clogged and can start a leak somewhere. There are other potential sources but this is the most likely. You should have your system serviced annually and when this is done the condensate drain should be cleaned as well.
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We just had a new HVAC system installed in our home (1250 sq ft ranch w/full basement). They installed a 3 ton unit. The first night we ran the A/C the lineset froze up. We called the service man and everything checked out OK. They told us we had the thermostat set to low (70). Following their advice, we tried to step down the cooling. When we set it to 71, after stepping down for 24 hours, it started to freeze again. Our old unit (40 yrs old) kept the house at 68 without freezing while running all day. Why is the new unit freezing up at 71? The old unit had a direct return on the side. They installed a new return on the main level, omitting the one in the basement. Is 72 the lowest we can set the thermostat? I also noticed the A/C did not kick off, even though it read 71 as the inside temperature. Is there any truth to the explanation that the setting was too low for the system to handle it? Temps have been in the 80,s during the day and 60,s at night. Any advice?
MP

Wow, that's a tough question to answer. I don't know where you live so I can't even guess if your air conditioner fills the "rule of thumb" guide that old time contractors used; 600 sq ft per ton. The only way to know for sure if your AC is the proper size is to have a heat gain/loss analysis done for your home. Any competent contractor can do one for you. It is in fact possible to freeze up an air conditioning system but it shouldn't happen if everything is designed and operated properly. In the Midwest the average temperature (if there is such a thing) most people keep their homes in the summer is around 74 to 76 degrees. If humidity levels are controlled these temps are more than comfortable for the average (?) homeowner. If you have to keep your temps that low (70, 71) to be comfortable I suggest one possibility is your new system is too big for your home. That would answer many of the problems you're experiencing. Other things that cause freezing are too low of refrigerant charge, not enough air flow, too low of return temperatures, and a few others. If everything is right and you still can't find an easily correctable fix have your service company look into putting a "Freeze stat" on the evaporator coil. This will shut the AC off when it approaches conditions that would cause it to freeze up. Not a perfect solution but it can work as a last resort.
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A few days ago I noticed that my A/C seemed to not be cooling. I was turning it down to below 60 to get it to a comfortable 70ish. I had a technician come out today and he changed my thermostat (got a digital)but couldn't service my A/C until next week. The new thermostat still reads 82 but it feels okay so I'm assuming it's not actually 82 in the house. It's still not cooling well though. I set it to 60 and hours later, it is actaully going up! I just checked and it now says 83. My question is, should I allow him to wait until next week or insist he come back sooner? I'm not uncomfortable, just afraid of burning up a compressor or something waiting for him to return. Maybe something is wrong with the digital read out?
Lisa

Well, I think you may have another problem. I can't think of a reason that a technician would come to your home to install a new thermostat and not have time to look at your air conditioner at the same time. This is a very poor business practice unless there were some very extenuating issues. It's not cost effective for a company to send a technician out to do partial repairs and most professional shops don't operate as you've described. I think, knowing only what you've told me, that I'd look for another company to come back and check things out. Also, I wouldn't wait a week to have the unit serviced. Little problems can become huge ones by putting off service especially if you have a known problem. Just a bit of information here to go along with that; it doesn't do any good to turn a thermostat down to 60 or anything lower or higher than your desired temperature by more than a few degrees. If the system won't achieve its desired temperature (within a 1 -3 degree range) you have a problem. By making it work harder to get to "60" (which it most likely never will) you only compound a potential problem. So, if putting the temp 2 or 3 degrees lower or higher than your desired temperature doesn't do the trick - it's time to call a service technician. Thanks for your question.
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One of the l/4" copper lines in my Lennox outdoor condenser coil ruptured, and the system rapidly depressurrized and shut off. The tech tells me it's unrepairable and I need to replace the entire condenser coil or install a whole new system because my 10 SEER unit is obsolete now. Both options are very expensive. It seems like you could braze a splice to fix the broken line pretty easily and recharge the system. He said he's never seen a coil fail like that. What do you think?
Anonymous

Depending upon the age of the system he may be right. Lennox, along with some other manufacturers had a problem a while back with some faulty refrigeration circuits. Depending upon the cause they may have some insight about your problem and offer a solution. There are many variables unfortunately and sometimes it was covered under warranty, sometimes not. If the copper is defective patching it (not recommended in most cases) would probably only delay another rupture in another location and you'd have the same issue again. If you trust your service company I'd ask them to check into it a little further with the manufacturer. If not I'd get a second opinion. Anyone can make a mistake or not be aware of some service issues.
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We have a Lennox furnace with a/c unit, Model #C16-41W-1FF purchased in 1986. Last fall we had our Lennox furnace replaced under warranty due to problems with the early high efficiency furnaces. We just used the a/c for the 1st time since the furnace replacement. Water puddle has formed coming out from under the furnace. Any suggestions? Never had this happen before the furnace was replaced.
Ronnie

Usually this is a fairly simple problem. Either a drain is plugged or possibly the coil was not leveled when they put the new furnace in. I've even had someone set a suitcase on the tubing that sometimes is used to route the condensation to a floor drain. This pinched the tube shut and caused the water to backflow out of the drain pan. If you're not comfortable checking these things out I'd call whoever put the furnace in and ask them to check it out for you. PS - there are other more serious causes but this is the most likely given your description. Also, check your air filter to make sure it's not plugged up and causing the AC to freeze up. That too can create the problem you mention.
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I am having my outdoor unit and evaporator coil replaced. I looked into heat pumps, but the cost difference between the heat pump and regular A/C unit (Lennox XC16 vs XP16) is just over $1000! Is this added expense really worth it in the end?
Anonymous

Depending upon where you live a heat pump can make a tremendous difference in utility costs. You may want to broaden your approach and look at different manufacturers or dealers. Try to find a dealer that's not locked into just one specific brand. In the end the product brand really doesn't matter much anymore but the expertise of the installing dealer is critical. Be sure to ask for references.
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My cooling unit is not cooling. The fan on the unit is blowing, but I don't feel air coming any of the vents inside my home. The vent covers are even cold to the touch. I crawled under our home to ensure the ducts were connected; all looked fine except for some insulation that had come loose from a couple of large ducts. Any idea why air is not being forced into my home?
Anonymous

You have left several questions that need to be answered first. Is the fan that's running on the outdoor or indoor unit? Is your home a modular home? Is the unit a "split-system" or "self-contained"? Unfortunately I don't have enough information to adequately answer your question. It could be something as simple as a plugged air filter. If I had to guess it sounds like your outdoor condenser fan is running and perhaps the indoor unit fan is not. I think it's time to call a qualified service technician before any damage is done to your unit.
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can one add freon to a window unit AC?
Ed

The basic answer is yes. But, newer window ac's generally do not have the service ports needed to add freon. Many times these can be added by a qualified technician; however many window units are not worth the investment and you may be better off just replacing it.
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My wife closes the vents in unused rooms because she thinks it will help make the other rooms hotter (in the winter) or cooler (in the summer). Does closing off several vents really help to improve the temperature in the rooms most used?
Anonymous

It can but keep in mind a few things:

1. Your comfort system depends upon air flow to efficiently do it's job. If you restrict too much air you can begin to affect the efficiency, life span, and comfort of your comfort system.

2. Depending upon the structure and insulation of your home, when you close off certain areas of your home all you do is allow cold winter or hot summer temperatures further into your home. This can create a more severe problem as far as comfort goes and actually drive up heating or cooling costs as you try to compensate for increases in humidity, a cold floor, etc.

There is one situation that I believe it actually may help to close off registers. If you have an upper level that you just are not going to use and you intend to keep it closed off it may pay to restrict heating from going directly to that area. However, if this cuts the air flow of the heating appliance it may be detrimental to the overall effectiveness of the system. If in doubt, keep them open.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

My older White-Westinghouse window a/c unit will violently shut off and blow hot during the hot summer months. After it cools off some, it will cycle back cold. If I shade and blow a fan on the unit outside it will not happen as often. It seems like it is overheating. Do I need a new a/c unit?
Anonymous

Maybe not. If the unit blows cold at times then apparently it still works, at least to a degree. Many window air conditioners get plugged with dirt and can be difficult to clean. Dirty coils prevent air from passing through the unit and cooling the compressor. The compressor can then overheat and kick out. On many models, built-in safety switches will automatically reset when it cools. This possibly explains the cycling issue you mention. So, depending upon the age and value of your unit; it may pay to have a qualified technician check it out to see if it just needs cleaning.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

My thermostat was replaced on my heating unit. The fan will come on for about 10 minutes, and not heat up and go back off. Also, have to turn thermostat up to 80 at times.
Anonymous

You didn't say if the system was doing this before you replaced your thermostat. If not it's probably the heat anticipator or the cycle rate on the new thermostat is set incorrectly. Incorrectly installing a thermostat runs the risk of actually burning up the anticipator if there is one on your thermostat. Unfortunately these adjustments are outside the scope of most do-it-yourselfers. It's probably time to call a qualified service professional before any damage is done to your system.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I want to get a heater for my garage, power vented, natural gas hanging unit, my garage is 28 x 30, with 2 walk in doors with half glass and 2 garage doors, 2x4 walls insulated and R19 in the celing, how many btu heater will I need, I have priced 2 and one is a 35,000 btu for $440, and the other is a 75,000 btu for $500, is 75,000 btu too large? If it is too large, would it hurt to get the larger one?
Anonymous

PI'm not sure where you're writing from so it depends on the local temperatures. It also depends upon what you're going to use the garage for. If you just want to keep a car warm and have a place to work in the winter I'd probably go with the larger unit. It will have a faster recovery time (the time needed to warm the area up after it cools off) when you open the doors in the winter. There are several other considerations that impact sound levels, efficiency, comfort, etc. but I don't have enough information from you to go into that. So this is one case where for $60 I'd rather be too big than too little.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I'm from Omaha, but I love this site! I do have a heating question...our heater works great, however, lately if we want to turn up the heat it will not turn on until the house has completely cooled from the last run. Is there anything to do to fix this? We had it checked in the fall, but the guys said it worked great. Thanks for your help!
Patricia

Patricia, it sounds like this is a new problem since you had it checked in the fall. If so the most likely source is a problem with the thermostat. Depending whether it is a "dial" type or digital thermostat there are devices built in to them called "anticipators" or "cycle rates" that can be adjusted. Normally once set these are not changed unless there has been some other change such as a new furnace, different thermostat, etc. If this is not the case my best guess is the "anticipator" has burned out or there has been a failure in the thermostat itself. Your best bet would probably be to contact whoever said it was working great in the fall and ask them to check it out. Thanks for your question.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I need to disconnect my Heating/Cooling system.Unit outside with air handler inside;typical doublewide setup. The electrical is no problem,I just don't want a freon mess. What is the best way to avoid a freon disaster?
Anonymous

The only way to avoid a potential mess is to call an EPA certified technician to disconnect your system. Many mobile homes have "quick disconnect" fittings that are supposed to capture freon when opened up. But, you really need to evacuate the freon into the outdoor unit if equipped with re-sealable service valves. I don't recommend you attempt this on your own.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

We are looking for an outside heating and air unit, where do we go and how much?
Donna

The best place to go is to friends or family that have had a positive experience with a heating & cooling company. They can usually refer you to someone that you'd be comfortable with. Otherwise, check out the phone book for local companies, then see if they have a website where you can go for more information. As to how much, there are too many variables to go into that in a column like this. Local factors, your home and budget all affect the price.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

Do the AC Unit (outside) and the evaporator coils have to be compatible? I want get a bring new AC unit without replacing the evaporator coils because it look new and nothing wrong with it. JR

JR, yes, it's absolutely critical that the indoor and outdoor units match. If they do not your system may not work very well or may not work at all. It can also dramatically shorten the life of the outdoor unit as well. While in the past some people have gotten away with unmatched equipment, the new 13 SEER & higher air conditioners make a matched system a must.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

please please help me. me and my husband have just moved into a trailer home. its is quite long, we have gone through 3 air conditioners-the first 2 i thought just were old and thats why it wasnt cooling our place down, but this new one is brand new and the heat is unbearable. we have the air on all day, it goes down to 80 tops. today it has been at 98 degrees all day, my cats are panting all day, im worried for them. please tell me what the problem is. i think i have an idea of what it could be but im not sure-we bought an AC for a small room, but my husband keeps telling me that since it is a long space we need one for bigger space, but could that be the problem? wouldnt it still cool something? please help. Rebecca

Rebecca, I can't be sure but it sounds like you purchased a "window" type air conditioner rather than a central unit for your home. If that's the case you need to make sure the air conditioner is sized to fit your home's cooling needs. I would say the most common mobile home (single wide) air conditioners around Nebraska fall into the 2.5 to 3 Ton category. Don't worry that's not a weight ton, it's a cooling ton. 2.5 tons = 30,000 btu, 3 tons = 36,000 btu. If you're using a window style unit I'm guessing you'd need at least a 2.5 ton or perhaps 3 ton unit if your home was built prior to 1977. There are many variables but based upon what you're saying it would be my guess you purchased too small an air conditioner for your home. If so you may be able to recover your investment by adding a second window air conditioner to supplement the existing one. Perhaps placing one at each end of the home.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

We have just moved into a new home, how often should we change our furnace filterAnonymous

Congratulations on your new home! You need to at least check the filter on a monthly basis. There are so many different types of filter out there that is virtually impossible to tell you specifically when to change it. There is everything from a monthly disposable 1 filter to the high efficiency media filters that are changed only once a year. At Total Comfort, Inc in almost all cases we install a high efficiency filter with a new system. It not only protects the investment by keeping the new unit clean but in many cases can actually help clear particulate matter from the air in the home. If you want to email us or give us a call we can be more specific to your particular situation.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

We are thinking of getting a new furnace and A/C unit. I have heard that it might be better to get a heat pump rather that the A/C. What is the differnece. This is for a natural gas furnace. Our house if 1170 sq. feet in size. Jean

Jean, in my opinion there is almost no reason anymore NOT to install a heat pump instead of an air conditioner. The single most important issue is to make sure the contractor you select is fully trained in heat pump installation and service and can prove it to you in writing. It's always a good idea to ask for references. Above 30 degrees the heat pump will efficiently transfer heat that is in the outside air and release it (the heat, not the actual air) into your home. Because the heat pump is transferring heat rather than creating it (as in a furnace) it is much more efficient. If you're in Nebraska the heat pump will provide the majority of your heating needs. Only when the temperature dips well below normal averages will your gas furnace need to come on to supplement the heat pump. For more information contact your local electric utility provider or a qualified heat pump contractor.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

My air conditon doesn't seem to cool my house properly, I've changed the air filter, and had a qualified Air Condition man come out and service it. He put two pounds of freon in. It still runs all day long, and the line still freezes up. Is there anything I can do? Concerned, Hot, 100 degrees all day long!
Rick

There are several factors here. Did your air conditioner EVER keep your house cool? How old is it? How often do you have to add FREON? Is the evaporator coil clean? Is the blower wheel clean? Unless there is some hidden issue a line that freezes up is usually fairly easy to diagnose. Unfortunately, some "qualified" Air Conditioning men get in a hurry when it's hot out and overlook secondary causes of a problem. I'd either call the company back or have another company come out and look at your system. Before you have them come out make sure they offer a satisfaction guarantee on the work they want to perform and get a price up front rather than being billed by the hour. That can really get expensive when you don't know what's wrong.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I have a hp, it is blowing cool air but my trailor is hot as a sauna, checked filter it is dirty replacing it today, i thought the purpose of a clean filter is to keep dust from getting into your vents, would this prevent it from cooling down my trailor, i noticed one vent with dirt, and my filter is filthy.
Valerie

A dirty filter is one of the most common causes for no cooling. Heat pumps, air conditioners, or any forced air comfort system is dependant upon air moving through it to cool or heat your home. A standard filter in most systems is primarily there to protect the motor and coil in the system. Not to keep your air clean. Most are only 3% to 7% efficient overall and do little other than to keep your system from getting real dirty real fast. You should replace or clean your air filter every 30 to 60 days depending upon how you use your system, if your air ducts are clean or not, and many other factors.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I have a freeze up problem the freon line from the compressor tapers to a small line once it goes into the wall and then it goes thru the attic and is merged into the evaporator coil which then is a larger freon line. could this be the problem as i have had three techs inspect this unit, replaced the condenser outside and still it occurs. i noticed this and pointed it out to the third tech and he said that could cause the high pressure on the one side and the low pressure on the other side. what do you guys think
Rich Rothschild

Boy Rich, that's a good question. I really don't think the size difference should case a freeze up problem unless you're talking about a drastic size differential. Typically freeze up issues are caused by low refrigerant or restricted air flow. HOWEVER, it is possible that whomever retro-fitted your system caused an extreme restriction by filling up the inside of the lineset with solder or brazing materials. It would be possible to create a situation where freezing could occur this way. I bring this up because you said they replaced to condenser outside. Normally you want to replace both the outside and inside components of the air conditioner/heat pump so that you have a matched system. If someone is cutting corners by replacing only the outdoor unit they may not be aware of proper procedures regarding air conditioner installations. You need to check with a professional technician to be sure you have a matched system. Then you may be able to determine the cause of your problem.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

We recently purchased a high end Lennox heat pump and high efficient furnace package. Our hydro bill has jumped from $35/month to $150/month and our gas bill has been cut in half. I talked to the sales rep and other home owners that have heat pumps and my hydro bill is almost double what they are paying. Is it possible the heat pump is faulty? We have no other major drawing items. Appliances are brand new (only 1 fridge), hot water tank is gas, and no other sources of heat. Our household contains 2 people in a 2300 sqft house and recently passed a home energy inspection with no problems beside new weather stripping on 2 doors.
Mike

Hmmm... that's a very good question. The first thing I learned when answering people's questions is that "anything is possible!" In fact it's very possible that there is a problem with your heat pump, regardless of the brand.

Lennox along with several other manufacturers that utilize a device called an expansion valve in the heat pump are and have had problems with units not performing properly. I'm not sure where you're located but several utilities in Nebraska have done studies that indicate up to 85% of the high efficiency heat pumps and air conditioners installed are not operating anywhere near their rated efficiency. Unfortunately many homeowners find they have spent good money to cut their energy costs by upgrading the furnace, air conditioner or heat pump and not realized much of an impact.

So, the first thing I would do is to have the contractor do a Performance Analysis on your system. It requires a fair amount of knowledge, skill, and a few specialized tools. But if the contractor is worth doing business with they should be willing to provide this for you. It will accurately tell you if the heat pump is performing as designed.

The other thing to consider is the fact that no two families are alike. You energy usage is completely dependant upon the efficiency of your other appliances (TV, computers, refrigerator, freezers, lights, etc.) and your operating habits. You need to compare these issues also when comparing to a "neighbor".

Lastly, I guess it depends upon how much your gas bill was reduced in dollars. You say it was cut in half. Well if your bill was $1000 before and now you're paying $500, a $115 increase in your electric bill (I assume that's what you mean by "hydro") would seem a good trade off.

If your contractor can not obtain the Performance Analysis contact us and I'll send one to you.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

What can my husband and I do to assure that our family is protected against the dangers of carbon monoxide? We have a furnace that is approximately 10 years old and it utilizes natural gas. From a safety perspective, would you recommend going electric?
Nicole

Nicole, your question is very timely, the recent tragedy in Wahoo with both a father and his son dying from carbon monoxide poisoning was due to a faulty furnace. There are two very simple things you can do to protect yourself and your family. First is to make sure you have a working CO (carbon monoxide) detector in your home. These are available from many hardware stores and heating contractors. They have a life expectancy normally of about 5 years and then need to be replaced when the sensor fails. Expect to pay about $69 to $130 for a quality monoxide detector.

Just like smoke detectors, you don't want to buy the cheap models, many just don't really work. Second, it's only wise to have your furnace inspected every heating season. Like any mechanical device they can get out of adjustment or have a sensitive part fail. While it's very unlikely with all the new safety devices built into today's furnaces, things can and do go wrong. Many times we'll go into a home and find the furnace working perfectly but the chimney or flue connector that goes to the furnace or water heater may be bad or not functioning properly. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless byproduct of combustion that is deadly and even a small amount can lead to illness or permanent damage as it has a cumulative effect over time. Electric heating does not produce carbon monoxide but if you have an attached garage it is still a wise idea to have a CO detector. More people are killed by leaving a car running in the garage (even with the door open) than by furnaces. In addition while electric furnaces do not present a CO danger an improperly working one is still a fire safety hazard. GET YOUR FURNACE CHECKED every year by a qualified technician. This is one area that we ask people not to cut corners.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

What is the benefit of a heatpump over a furnace and AC? (Assuming everything is running on electric and no gas.)
Anonymous

This is an great question that we are asked all the time. In simplest terms the reason a heat pump is a better device to heat and cool your home is that it does not have to "create" heat, it simply transfers or "pumps" it from one location to another. Therefore it is much more efficient. Let me explain. A gas, propane, oil, or electric furnace has to take one form of energy and "transform" it. Natural gas is exposed to an ignition source and the gas is converted to a flame which in turn gives off heat. In addition some energy is wasted because light is also created in the process. The same holds true for other fossil fuel burning furnaces. Electric furnaces are considered "100% Efficient" even though they are not really because there is still a conversion process going on and some energy is lost as light, you can see the elements of the electric furnace glow much like a toaster in your kitchen.

A heat pump on the other hand simply absorbs heat from one location and moves it to another by way of a process called "phase change". Freon is pumped back and forth from outdoors to indoors or vice versa and the heat that is absorbed boils the liquid Freon, changes it to a gas, and after being pumped to the proper location in your home (outside in summer, inside in winter) the gas is cooled by passing air and the heat is released into the atmosphere outside in summer or to your air ducts inside in the winter. The problem most people have in understanding this is how can there be heat in the air during the winter.

It's a long explanation that is beyond the scope of this column but there are plenty of websites that can go into detail if your desire. All air conditioners are in fact heat pumps, even window units. They simply are designed to operate for only one season. Other heat pumps in your home are refrigerators and freezers.

Proper installation of whole house conditioning heat pumps is critical getting the comfort, efficiency, and life span you deserve. Make sure your contractor is well versed in their application.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

My electrical Lennox model # B24Q3-1P is leaking from I guess is the coil, Sometimes the filter is soaked and tonight when I came home from work it was dry but it was leaking and a lot of water on the floor. We had a tech out just last week he did something spent about a half hour under the unit. Any suggestions?
Anonymous

Unfortunately I just don't have enough information to address your issue with much certainty. There could be several reasons; dirty filter causing the unit to freeze up and when the system shuts off the ice melts and soaks your filter and runs onto the floor, low on Freon basically causing the same problem, too much air flow blowing the moisture off the coil onto the filter, a cracked drain pan, plugged drain connections, and on and on. If you had a technician out I'm puzzled why he could not locate the problem, typically water problems are not an "elusive" issue. I did a search of our customer base to determine if one of our technicians was at your home and it appears we were not your service company. If I missed something please contact us as our service work has a two year "Fixed Right Or It's Free" guarantee. We'll be happy to come back out to see what was missed. If it was another service company they should certainly stand behind their work especially if it was only a week ago or so.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

Hello, my air is not working. Hardly any cold air is coming from my ceiling ducts, and my filter is clean. I had the guy that lives behind me add freon because it was low... Still not working.. what's my next move?
Melissa

Melissa, that's a good question. I assume the "guy that lives behind you" is a qualified HVAC (heating, ventilating, air conditioning) technician that's certified by the EPA to handle refrigerant (Freon). There are so many variables as to why your air conditioner is not working I couldn't begin to guess. I would appear you've checked the common reasons... filter, Freon, thermostat - so it looks like you need a professional service technician to take a look at it. If it's not working properly I'd recommend shutting it off before any potential real damage occurs. Have the system checked by a qualified service professional and determine your best course of action.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I am having some condensation problems around the vents in the ceiling when I run the air conditioner at my home. It is settling in the attic and causing water spots on my ceiling. What causes this and is there a fairly simple solution for this? Thank you.
Srihari

Condensation occurs when hot and cold meet in a humid environment. The first thing I would check is to make sure the ductwork in the attic is adequately insulated. This could be a major step in correcting your problem and would have the additional benefit of significantly reducing your energy costs. Two other potential sources of your problem may be: 1. The blower speed on your air handling equipment may be set too high. It can literally "blow" the condensation your air conditioner is trying to remove off the coil and into your ductwork, or 2. Your air conditioner may be too large for your home. This does two things, as in #1 too high a blower speed and also too large an air conditioner has a hard time removing humidity because it cools the home too fast and runs such a short time. The first item (insulating the ducts) could potentially be addressed by your self. However unless you are qualified I'd leave the other problem up to a trained professional to determine that issue.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I live in a townhome and the furnace and blower plus thermostat are located in the middle 2 levels. I have not replaced the filter for a year now because I cannot locate its place. Can you please let me know where the most likely place for the filter would be? I think my ac is choking.
Srihari

Good question. The filter is most likely located in one of two places. Either at the furnace (possibly inside it or near the side or bottom) or check in your hall way ceiling. Many times a "filter grill" is used in a town home style of application. A more important note is, "has your air conditioner not been serviced since you've lived there?" Your technician should have shown you where your filter is located so that you can periodically check it yourself. If your air conditioner has not been serviced it's likely your unit is not only being "choked" by a dirty filter but also potentially damaged due to lack of maintenance. To not have the system professionally serviced would be like asking you to run a marathon while breathing through a straw. You probably wouldn't last long and neither will your air conditioner. Seek out a trained professional service company and protect your investment. Right now we are trying the best we can to take care of a lot of people that did not practice preventative maintenance on their air conditioners. Several are on a waiting list to have them replaced when some minor service would have kept them running for several more years potentially. Plus they are having to endure extremely hot, humid days and nights until the new unit can be installed. When you have a Precision Tune-Up done on your system a good technician will show you where and what you need to do for self-service.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

I have just purchased a torr gauge thats pulls down in microns. In the instructions, it says that you should aim for 700 microns on large units and 400 microns on small units. I am working on a void unit with 3/4, 3/8 pipework which is in total 6 metres pipe lengh. Could you please tell me what I should be aiming for on this type of system?
Shaun

First of all a disclaimer. Our insurance company does not allow us to offer specific information for do-it-yourself repair on heating and cooling equipment due to the potentially lethal voltages, Freon pressures, explosive gases, etc. contained in them. We recommend a trained professional attempt any repairs or modifications for you. I also was not aware that Torr International made vacuum devices for the HVAC (heating, ventilating, air conditioning) industry. It was my understanding that they made instruments for the electronics industry related to etching circuit boards, etc. So the first thing I would do is check your instructions to verify that it is compatible with the refrigerant oils used in HVAC systems.

To address your question I'll defer to a major manufacturer's instructions for your situation. Typically they suggest a thorough purge of the system with dry nitrogen, followed by evacuating down to a stable 23,000 microns, followed by a second purge with nitrogen and a subsequent pump down to 500 microns. Regardless of the size of the system up to 30 tons. Again, we DO NOT recommend or advise anyone without proper training to attempt any type of repair or modifications to a cooling system. You may also put yourself at risk of violating Federal law regarding the handling and disposal of refrigerants.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning

My air conditioning unit is producing more water out of the drain than it has ever produced before. My coils in the evaporator and condensor are both clean, and the charge is good. What could be the other cause for this to happen?
Anonymous

What you've described is typically not a problem but a good thing. Humidity levels are very high currently and your air conditioner is just doing its job very effectively. As the humidity levels increase the condensate discharge from your air conditioner can increase too. Before an air conditioner can cool it must remove humidity from the air. This is called "latent" cooling, it then proceeds to reduce the temperature in your space which is referred to as "sensible" cooling. A very simple explanation of a somewhat complicated process. When air conditioners are too big for the home it becomes difficult for the system to remove humidity because they cool too quickly and don't have time to take out the uncomfortable levels of moisture in the air. Hope this helps.
Total Comfort Heating & Air Conditioning